How to Draw Foxy the Fox, Five Nights at Freddys

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STEP 1. Foxy has a pretty complex design, compared to Freddy, so we're going to build the full figure with as much detail as possible in the guide line stage. Then we'll take care of the details in the inking stage. To begin, draw a large hexagonal shape for the head. This is the same basic shape as Freddy's head. Near the bottom, add another shape for the snout, and we'll add a center line down the face.   STEP 2. Add a small nose at the top of the snout. Then outline the eye holes. The ears essentially have five sides -- the flat side toward the head, and a curve on each remaining side that I've broken down into two straight sections. This already looks like some weird kind of skin mask, but let's keep going.   STEP 3. Next we'll draw the fur sticking out on each of Foxy's cheeks. These are drawn as simple shapes, almost like a tooth or something. Below that, we'll draw the toilet-bowl shape of the mouth. This looks freakishly large, but from what I can tell from the game, the lower jaw is wider than the upper jaw.   STEP 4. From this angle, most of Foxy's body is obscured by his head. The chest itself is, I think, narrower than Freddy's. I drew it narrower, in any case. A simple ball will do for each shoulder for now. Then draw a triangle shape or a pair of underwear for the pelvis.   STEP 5. Foxy is running at us, so one leg will be raised up, and one will appear as if it's moving away from us. Start with the thighs, and draw one thigh as a large sausage shape. The opposite leg will start thick at the hip and grow narrower toward the knee. Foxy's lower legs are the exposed bars of his mechanical endoskeleton. On the forward leg, we only see the very bottom of this bar as it connects to the foot. On the far leg, the bar is also in perspective and starts thick at the knee and grows narrower toward the ankle. The feet are flat, boxy shapes drawn at different angles. The forward foot will naturally appear larger than the rear foot.   STEP 6. I wanted the arms to looks like they're flailing around a bit, so each arm will have a different angle. On the hook arm, the upper arm hangs down and appears short in perspective, and the forearm bends outward with the wrist pointing upward. On the hand arm, the upper arm sticks out at an angle from the body and the forearm bends down. The hand bends outward at an angle.   STEP 7. Next we'll fill in the basic shape of the the main details -- a rim inside the ears, the ear connection, hairs, eyebrows, etc.. Over one eye, there's an eyepatch that (for some reason) flips up when Foxy is on the attack. His mouth is full of large, sharp teeth with a space between the middle teeth on the top.   STEP 8. Now we'll start to go into extreme detail for this guy. All the main shapes are laid down, so we just need to refine them. The nose is filled in black, and we'll add one big highlight and a thin highlight around the edges. The snout breaks up into a few smaller sections with curves bending outward from the center. With the added spots... am I the only one getting hungry for cookies?   STEP 9. You may have noticed I'm using slightly rougher lines in this drawing to create a dirty type of feel. These Animatronic characters were once in pristine condition, but are now old and (in Foxy's case) falling apart. The rough line art also helps to make it look a bit more creepy. The eyes are built up with simple curves, but note the black space between the eyeball and the eye hole of the mask. It's that black space that makes the eyes look creepy. The eyepatch is filled in black. The lower edge overlaps the eye a bit. As with the nose, we want a single highlight toward the light source, and a thin white highlight to show the edges.   STEP 10. This may seem like a big jump, but we're mainly just outlining out guide drawing here. The head and cheek fur blend into one shape, with some wrinkles added to the forehead. I've also added the black strap of the eyepatch. With the main shapes outlined, you can go in and add some detail. The rounded scratches and curves on the cheek fur make them feel more 3D. The same goes for the strands of hair atop the head. A simple, thin line helps to add dimension to each of those shapes. The wrinkles above the eyebrows are added for effect and may not actually be in the game, but it enhances the appearance of the eyes being opened wide and the eyebrows raised.   STEP 11. The main difference on the lower jaw here is the addition of wrinkles. The outline curves overlap to create that effect, and some small scratched help to give the jaw some dimension. Start the teeth with the two upper center teeth. These shapes will overlap the rest. The teeth are in a V formation, moving away from us. The line and dashes on the inside of each tooth helps to create shadow and remove the flat feeling of a simple outline.   STEP 12. I got a little rough with the line art on the ears. Since the face is our focal point, not all of the remaining shapes have to have perfect, ultra detail. Of course, you don't want to get too sloppy. I evened out the shapes a bit so the ears match better. I've given the lower teeth a bit of a curve. Inside the mouth there's a secret second set of teeth! These are the mechanical teeth of the hidden endoskeleton beneath the cute outer suit, and are drawn more like human teeth.   STEP 13. Fill the mouth in black, leaving a white outline around the edge of the lips, and beneath the inner teeth to create a creepy effect. From there we'll outline and detail the shape of the torso. This is where we see the first tear in the Foxy suit, on the upper chest. Inside that black tear, we want a couple of small white shapes to be visible. This is part of the endoskeleton peeking through. Lots of dust and scratches drawn in a downward curved pattern to give the body texture here.   STEP 14. The upper legs are transformed quite a bit here. On the raised leg, we see a giant tear that exposes the mechanical leg underneath. At the knee, there's an exposed hinge joint, so the curves become vertical. At the hip joint, we see a gap between the suit pieces, and some smaller hydraulic bars are visible. This is very similar to my How to Draw Freddy Fazbear tutorial, so be sure to check that out. A lot of the detailing is the same, and we see the same type of gnarled texture on what little remains of Foxy's leg. Deep wrinkles and smaller texture lines. On the rear leg, it's mostly the same story, but the tears are more in the upper area of the leg, exposing the bars in that area. The bars move from thick to thin, since this leg is in perspective.   STEP 15. Another similar story here with the shoulders. The shoulder shape becomes more of a teardrop, but large tears expose the skeleton beneath. Each shoulder has a hinge joint similar to knee. Drawing dark lines inward from the outer edges creates a reflective effect on the metal. On the hand arm we see the bar of the arm clearly. On the hook arm, the bar is mostly obscured by the suit in perspective.   STEP 16. We see more of that bar on the upper arm as it travels down toward the elbow. The same goes for the hand arm, where the bar is drawing continuing from the shoulder all the way toward the elbow. Make sure these sections of bar line up properly. The rest of the detailing is the same as on the legs.   STEP 17. I got a little creative with the forearms here. The hook forearm is very wrinkles, with thin strands of fabric acting like torn skin on a zombie or something. Thin metal bars are seen within the tear, surrounded by heavy black shadow. The hook hand itself is built with simple shapes. A hard black shadow with inner dashmarks are what really give dimension to these shapes and makes them feel 3D. On the other arm, the robot hand is a simple square of metal. A hinge joint connects the hand to the arm. Each finger is made of rectangular shapes with small joints in between. The reverse Z pattern on the back of the hand is meant to create a reflection.   STEP 18. I forgot to mention the shading on the endoskeletal bars, but we have plenty more to work on here so listen up. After adding a couple of fabric chunks to the rear knee, we'll focus on the bars. The main idea to shade the bars is to draw a thick black shadow down one side. For each section of bar, you want a white highlight to remain -- otherwise you lose all the detailed curves you just drew. On the inner edge of the black shadow, draw a series of curved dash marks. These curves should move in perspective with the shape of the bar. On the raised upper leg, the curves bend upward. Below the knee and on the rear leg, the curves bend downward.   STEP 19. Each foot is a flat, metal shape. It's thick at the toe joint, and narrower at the heel. Each foot as two simple toes that stick out at a slight angle. I used a series of black shapes and long dash marks to create dirty reflections on the metal. The upper leg is casting a shadow on the raised foot, and I just added more shadow to the rear foot because I thought it looked good. *shrug*   STEP 20. Erase your guide lines, and you should end up with something like this. Pretty wild, if I do say so myself. I think he turned out pretty nicely. Let me know what you think. I hope you enjoyed it. I'll try to do the remaining Freddy's characters ASAP, so be sure to check back for those. Thanks for viewing!   Step 1. Step 2. Step 3. Step 4. Step 5. Step 6. Step 7. Step 8. Step 9. Step 10. Step 11. Step 12. Step 13. Step 14. Step 15. Step 16. Step 17. Step 18. Step 19. Step 20.