How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands

  • BEGIN


How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 2

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 3

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 4

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 5

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 6

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 7

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 8

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 9

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 10

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 11

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 12

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 13

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 14

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 15

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 16

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 17

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 18

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 19

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 20

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 21

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 22

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 23

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 24

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 25

How to Draw Sir Hammerlock From Borderlands 26
STEP 1. This tutorial is completely in PENCIL! Let's start with the tools. I'm in love with the Monolith 9B graphite pencil sticks. It's nice, black, smooth on the surface and makes such great dark lines. And a No.2 pencil isn't bad either--great for details and light shading. The great thing about .7mm mechanical pencil is you never need to sharpen it... just change the lead when it runs out. Kneaded erasers are charms. Kneaded erasers can make great highlights like the pupil's catch lights, or shine in hair. But you need patience with it because you need to mold it & sometimes you have stroke a few times before getting your results. Blending stumps do just that... blend and so does tissue paper for large areas.   STEP 2. The picture that goes with this step shows two different ways to hold your pencil to acquire certain effects. OVERHAND: Holding a sharpened pencil in normal writing form with fingers in the middle or near the lead gives you great control and thin/detailed strokes. UNDERHAND: Holding the pencil at a 45 degrees or near level to the table with end of pencil under your palm with pencil on the flat side, gives you large shading coverage. With the No.2 pencil, you have the exposed lead side to shade with. But for a wider swath, use that Cretacolor Monolith graphite pencil with no wood casing. The whole sharpened portion is all lead, like in the step's picture. Practice the toning values to help you with control.   STEP 3. The strange crescent shape on the oval is just a reminder that his hair will be there. Also draw in the bisecting line (down the middle of the face) and the line where his hand salute goes. In the next picture, draw in the hand shape and small "A" line from the wrist.   STEP 4. First picture draw in his eyebrow, eye with mechanical eye (glasses), nose, and mouth. The parallel lines in the next picture help with eyebrows, eyes, nose and mouth placement. Also sketch in his hat, beard, and shoulders.   STEP 5. FIRST PICTURE: If you are doing a professional picture and need accuracy, this has helped me tremendously. This is MY TIP of the day and it is LONG! Skip it if you want to. Those crazy lines help with placement too. Don't get me wrong, I mess up majorly most times. What? I can hear you say, "Your pictures are near perfect!" Not when I'm working on them. If you feel something strange in your gut about your picture, put it up to the mirror. That'll tell you. Also take your reference pic and put it in the mirror too... what a big difference! To measure out where the features go, take an envelope, piece of paper or a ruler (straight edge)... anything to vertically represent your line placement and try this: Take your reference pic, put the straight edge against the edge of the smile line and see where it lands near the eye. Then do the same on your drawing, if it doesn't land in the same place, adjust. Don't give up. Take a deep breath and work slowly. It's like molding clay. SECOND PICTURE: You've erased the guidelines and other distracting lines. Your picture won't look exactly like this, but remember my picture is only a guide... that's it. Now we are going to start with shading.   STEP 6. Start shading with a pencil, even a No. 2 pencil will do well. Shade diagonally around the eyes. Also fill in the eyes, leaving some highlights. Give a hexagon shape to the mechanical eyes/glasses. Fill in the eyebrows darkly with diagonal lines.   STEP 7. 1ST PICTURE: Shows the red outline that represents the first shapes. Don't be afraid to leave your lines and draw over them... like reshaping them. 2ND PICTURE: Go ahead and lightly shade with diagonal strokes. Now using a .7mm HB or even 2B lead in the mechanical pencil is great. It doesn't wear down, you don't have to sharpen it, and it's quality remains the same.   STEP 8. Sketch in more details in the hat, hand, neck and shirt.   STEP 9. Continue to sketch in more shading on his glasses and on his cheeks. Darken his eyebrows too (notice how the lines are thickened).   STEP 10. You can see closely how the shading progresses. 1. Simple eyebrows and eyes. 2. Shading and shaping begins. 3. More lines and looking at the reference. 4. Darkening the eyebrows, eyes, and adding more shadow & shading to skin to match reference. 5. Blending of sketch. 6. Darkening of shadows (because blend lightened the picture) & adding highlights with eraser. Notice how the iris is slightly covered by the upper lid. And the reason for so much shading around the eye is because it is sunken in a socket. TIP: When shading, in a corner or darker edge area, start dark then allow your stroking to become lighter as you progress out. This works in small stroke progression or circular shading.   STEP 11. Now let's add more detail to the nose. Those pyramid type of lines help to place the shading. The nostrils of the nose is darkened for definition. Can you see how the basic shape of the nose is triangular? Hopefully, this will make it easier to draw.   STEP 12. Keep sketching in the skin tone lightly with your No.2 pencil. Large mustaches and hair can take just as long to create as the face. So I consider hair to be important to capture as well as the subject's personality. The straight & small curved lines represent the direction of the hair strands & help to keep focus on drawing the mustache. Yes, this is created by looking at the reference picture.   STEP 13. Here you can more easily capture the shading progression of the nose. If you need to, lighten the outline of the nose with your (kneaded) eraser.   STEP 14. Observe the dark lines outlining his mustache and sideburns. You can draw the thicker lines with a No.2 pencil with pressure. A 9B graphite pencil does wonders.   STEP 15. Here is the beginning of shading of his mustache & chin. The strokes are curved and go along with the basic shape of the hair groups.   STEP 16. Keep adding those hair strokes in the direction of the curls. It helps to keep looking at the reference and not assuming where the lines flow. Also darken shadows around his eyes and nose. This is a good time to shade his neck area and mechanical fingers. Shade the back of his neck a bit more.   STEP 17. Here is the shading progression for the lips and his mustache. In picture 3, you can see the direction of the strokes, as well in picture 8. Use the No.2 or 9B graphite pencil to add darkness to where the lips meet & to thicken the outlines. Picture 8 is the end result highlight/darkening details.   STEP 18. Add shading to sections of his mechanical hand. Also detail his hand & shirt with lines.   STEP 19. I don't know about you, but sometimes I get lost in complex patterns, like these fingers. Click on the picture to see where I made adjustments for the fingers. The 1st pic (Red) is the 1st sketch of the fingers. The 2nd picture is the correction. Hope you can see the difference.   STEP 20. Shade in his hand more. Apply line patterns on the palm and shirt.   STEP 21. Continue with darker lined details in his hat, hand, and shirt.   STEP 22. Here is a nice closeup of the detailed progression of his mechanical hand. As you can see in the 4th picture, line patterns have added. Gradually these special features are darkened and tone is added. You also get a rich shadow area with the 9B Graphite pencil. The 6th picture is the completed process, with added highlights from the kneaded eraser.   STEP 23. Continue to shade lightly his hat shirt and hand.   STEP 24. I blended carefully with a medium torillion so the picture wouldn't lighten from using tissue paper. Since this is more like a cartoon picture with dark outlines, I preserved that look. Where needed I cleaned highlighted/shiny areas with my kneaded erasure (like his glasses, metal portions of his hand. I added freckles on his nose, according to the reference picture.   STEP 25. I played with the background digitally making it half black & graduating it to a light gray for dramatic effect for Sir Hammerlock. I hope you've enjoyed this tutorial.   Step 1. Step 2. Step 3. Step 4. Step 5. Step 6. Step 7. Step 8. Step 9. Step 10. Step 11. Step 12. Step 13. Step 14. Step 15. Step 16. Step 17. Step 18. Step 19. Step 20. Step 21. Step 22. Step 23. Step 24. Step 25.